Monument

Nah.

While they do use the Matter communication standard, these devices use the Thread protocol. The Venn diagram/conceptual model of how these interrelate is messy because Matter can run on both Thread or WiFi (depending on the hardware of the device), and Thread is a platform that supports multiple standards.

These remotes are Matter over Thread:

That’s possibly your detection settings or method (detection criteria, etc). My washer and dryer are separate devices on separate power monitoring plugs. The only time power draw for either goes above 2 watts is when they’re cycled on.

I just told the blueprint to wait 2 minutes before deciding a cycle has started before declaring it’s started, and 5 minutes after it has ended before sending a notification.

But I mean, I’m not here to yuck your yum. If it works for you, it works for you.

Sure – Ikea Bilresa scroll wheel blueprint (Matter) - The Original.
You do have to install the helper scripts and enable the disabled entities for full support, but so far, no complaints.

I use this - IKEA Bilresa scroll wheel. It also comes in a 3 pack for $28.

I’ve got it working in HomeAssistant, and they’re pretty neat. The knob has a click action, and the remote has a click action, too. Clicks on the remote allow you to select between 3 different ‘channels.’
In HA, you can set each channel so that the click and scroll does something different. (The blueprint I use has click, long press, double, triple, and quad click, as well as scroll wheel actions.)
I’m not that fancy - I’ve got each channel’s click action mapped to on/off toggle, and to brightness, color temp, and a hue scroller.

But why install an integration when the Appliance Notifications and Actions blueprint exists?

I think the only functional difference is that Washdata attempts to infer which cycle was run, but the blueprint doesn’t have to be configured via yaml.

If you have a fiber connection or notice packetloss/slowdowns after 9 minutes you may need to set:

net.link.ether.inet.max_age = 540

Oooooh.

I have the forgetting kind of ADHD, so I straight up don’t know what I do and don’t have. This could be handy in that regard.
But I also can’t really see myself using this because the debt of keeping it current would be a nightmare.

I just bought a Mac mini for $50 from a local university’s surplus store. I plan to use it as spare hdd space for another device (it came with a 1tb drive), but even being older, it’s still very capable.
Perhaps a similar device could work for you?

I’ve seen wrinkling like that occur on taller parts with lower infill when the outer shell traps warm/hot air, which distorts the top of the shell as it tries to escape.
If that’s at play here (it doesn’t feel exactly right, though), then as others have suggested, perhaps it’s a cooling fan speed setting?
Any chance your bed is too hot, or some settings like first layer temp/final layer temp are causing unexpected issues? That’s a giant skirt for a large, flat piece. Is the thing tacoing on you?

My other thought on this could be uneven drying of your filament. Perhaps one side is drying to 10%, and the other side is not. Any way to rotate the filament as it’s drying?
How long are you drying for?

So I recently(ish) went through this - migrating from consumer hardware to rolling my own.
Here’s what I did:

I bought a mini-PC router and loaded OPNsense onto it.
I needed wireless AP’s in some odd places, so I bought a pair of POE-powered Netgear WAX620 AP’s because they were a decent price, and a 2.5G POE+ Switch.
I probably would not go with Netgear again. They try to lock you into their cloud (subscription) platform. I don’t dig it. I would probably also not go with a POE switch unless I had to, because it adds a lot to the cost.
If I had planned better, I’d have waited until a decent older switch became available from a local surplus source. (The local university has a public surplus site that sometimes has interesting and cheap networking gear.)
If you plan to set up VLANs, make sure your switches are up to the task.