Nerds will see this and say, “hell yeah”.

Hell yeah!

At least when shits broken in Linux, it’s usually at least partially my fault, and I can usually at least partially fix it.

Why would it be a clog if they’re over-extruding?

Use your small printer to build a slightly larger printer, and then use that printer to build a slightly even larger printer. Then print this

I suppose if you’ve somehow come to the conclusion that testing things does not provide useful information (how do you suppose the people you are asking your question to have come to their conclusions?), I won’t try to persuade you otherwise. I’ll continue screwing around with no understanding of what I’m doing, I guess.

I’m sorry, maybe I’m not phrasing this correctly…

Just because one print works doesn’t mean it will work on every print.

I never said, “test on one print”. I said to test it. Test it on an object with many color changes, test it on a model with a ton of one color and only a small amount of another, test it with different infill percentages, test it on a prototype of something that’s going to be really important so you know how it will work in the end.

Everybody is going to have their own specific answer as to what works well and what is and isn’t necessary, the only way to find the right answer for you is to test things and figure it out yourself. The only way to get things 100% right 100% of the time is leave it how it is now and stop messing with it. Anything beyond that is going to vary on a case by case basis, and you’ll only understand what settings to change when, if you toy around with test prints.

I have been printing for many years. I understand that, “what works on one won’t always work on another”. Which is why I find it odd that you seem to be looking for an answer that works for one person, and therefore must work for every person, for every print. The only one-size-fits-all is going to be the most wasteful in material and time (purge tower and purging filament). If you want to cut back on what the manufacturer/ slicer devs are saying “this will most likely work”, you’re going to have to do some experimenting yourself.

That’s why I suggested testing it and seeing the results for yourself, not necessarily “turn it off and yolo”.

If you know firsthand what the outcome of changing the settings is, you can make a decision on your own based on your own experience when to use what settings.

If you have a printer that has these features, try it out and see the differences for yourself. There’s probably a reason why it’s set up the way it is, but sometimes the differences are so minute that you don’t notice or care. If you run a few prints and the color swaps look like garbage, you’ll have a better understanding of why the printer and firmware are set up that way. If it turns out fine, congratulations, you’ve made a personal improvement to your machine!

He certainly can be off-putting. The two videos related to this topic were pretty good though, imo

I know he does. I was saying that the code getting taken down from GitHub would be nowhere near the “end of the battle”. He would just rehost it elsewhere.

Yeah, I don’t think Louis Rossman has the means to host his own website or upload it somewhere else.

The former poster was incorrect in saying he was asking for donations (he was asking for people to say they would donate, if the need were to arise)

However, a few hours ago, he uploaded a followup video stating he has uploaded the code in question himself, and is inviting Bambu Labs to challenge him legally. In the video he did mention where donations could be made but I don’t recall him specifically asking for donations for this particular cause.

If that’s what they’re going with, that’s much more approachable, assuming it has most of everything you need to adapt most printers.

I wonder, what is the difference between the dedicated prusa kit, and the standard one? If the normal one is meant to convert any printer, why would one go for the more expensive set?

Has anyone seen any recent pricing for the standalone kit? In a video a while back I remember them estimating around $250 for the base hardware and $40-60 for each nozzle. I’m hoping that $250 base price hasn’t gone out the window. I was planning on building a voron 2.4 later this year with the INDX in mind.

Can you please upload some screenshots of the model you’re printing in the slicer, and the related settings? That’s really odd behavior.

It isn’t an “infill” setting. It’s “top/bottom” settings. I don’t what slicer you’re using, but every slicer should give you the option to set the number of top layers and bottom layers.

CNC Kitchen did a video a few years ago demonstrating that infill percentage has little to no effect on part strength, provided the rest of the print (walls, floors, ceilings) has enough material to grab on to.

This is a pretty slop-py article.

The entirety of voron is an open source project, they do not make or sell printers or parts. None of their printers are designed for this size, though. People have definitely made custom ones larger than the schematics but there are drawbacks for going even 50-100mm over the normal max of 350mm, doubling it would certainly require more engineering than “print some parts longer”

To give another perspective, I had a main board go out on my Neptune 3 right after a year of owning it, and they sent me a new one for free 🤷🏽‍♂️ the resin printer I have from them has seen much less use but has been rock solid every time I’ve used it.

Like I said, I’m not the most knowledgeable person on the subject, so I don’t know if there was more to the outrage than just “it’s an Israeli company”. I’m not currently in the market for a prusa printer, so I’m not particularly invested in their politics, just speaking on things that I have seen in this community